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The Virgin of Rocío carries a compass

In the "From the Inside" section, we tell you about the pilgrimage of the Virgin of Rocío, which combines sevillanas, rumbas, and, of course, bulerías.

Juan Garrido by Juan Garrido
11 2025 June
en From inside, On the front page, Authors
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Ana de los Reyes. Rocío Pilgrimage 2025. Photo: Juan Garrido

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She carries a compass, the Virgin of Rocío carries a compass… At least that's what they said The Marismeños in the Sevillian that Moraito included in his album Morao, Morao (Nuevos Medios, 2004). We're not ones to contradict one of the most established groups in this very Andalusian world, which takes on a special dimension in spring. From the various fairs to El Rocío, a territory always waiting to be discovered—or rediscovered—when Whit Monday appears and the people of Almonte parade the Mother of God through those streets filled with sand, dust, and faith.

From the moment the different subsidiary brotherhoods leave their respective canonical headquarters, the whistles and drums begin to draw the soundscape of what, for many, is a new dream to fulfill: to stand before the Blanca Paloma, at the gate of the Hermitage where more than a million faithful parade to make the pilgrimage. flamenco, as we mentioned, has a privileged place in homes, especially where devotees of the Jordan lands live and spend their time together during those days. Jerez, Triana, Utrera, Seville... always leave room for improvisation and for the voice of an artist or "simple" enthusiast to speak out at any moment, doing what their heart tells them to do.

We are not going to say that bulería surpasses sevillanas, far from it, although it is worth pointing out that there are flamenco sevillanas that set and continue to set trends in El Rocío. The Marismeños themselves, with Jump over the fence, Almonte, A prayer from Rociera, Almonteño leave me, etc., o Maria de la Colina, one of the greats of the genre, with masterpieces such as El Rocío is feeling, I like the tinkling, I'm going to forget an I love you, Like wicker and reed, etc., without forgetting the jewels of The Pele, with the sevillanas of the Handkerchief, Salmarina with so many letters worthy of the best poet as I am free, it was Seville or my life is mine.

 

«From inside, we have been able to hear voices like those of the sisters Coral and Ana de los Reyes, José Mijita, that of Juan de la Morena or Anabel Valencia, Manuel Moneo or Chanquita. We've seen Juan de Juan, Fernando Jiménez... and so many more dance, taking advantage of these days to celebrate life. Always in rhythm, like the Virgin of Rocío.

 

Rocío Pilgrimage 2025. Photo: Juan Garrido
Rocío Pilgrimage 2025. Photo: Juan Garrido

 

Bulería comes in many forms. On the one hand, we find the improvised version, which perhaps sounds best due to the purity of the moment, because there's no money involved, because it's done whenever one truly feels like it, in the intimacy of a wee morning or at dawn. There's also the the explosive party that everyone shares without profit, as they say. These celebrations usually take place on Friday evenings, especially on Saturdays when the sun is already setting, and on some Sunday afternoons. In some homes, quite rightly, the big celebration is on Monday when the Virgin is once again resting on the altar. It's the day of the Virgin of Rocío, we must celebrate! Other homes are already starting to pack up, and nostalgia fills every corner, sadness because Tuesday brings us back to the everyday, sometimes childish, but with hearts full of glory.

Who hasn't seen those great parties that Youtube gives us a glimpse of? Camarón with Lola Flores, or those organized by businessmen of the stature of José María González de Caldas, businessman who chaired Sevilla FC? It's clear that those meetings are no longer seen; we're back to the same old thing, as it's a different lifestyle than yesterday, and those meetings with those artists are, to say the least, impossible. There are a large number of houses that are betting on the flamenco and they hire a group to do it cante both bulerías and those sevillanas or some other rumba. Los del Rio For that, they excel alone with their infectious rhythm. This year, it's worth highlighting the local police's special focus on enforcing the rules regarding PA equipment, which is not permitted, nor are loudspeakers, except for those used at official events.

Some dance, others sing, and, what I like most, everyone enjoys themselves. El Rocío avoids the rigors of commitment, as is often the case at more formal events, where people have to attend for business purposes, like the April Fair itself, to name a few. People go to the Hermitage to enjoy and celebrate the blessed coming of the Holy Spirit. From within, we have been able to hear voices like those of the sisters. Coral and Ana de los Reyes, José Mijita, that of Juan de la Morena or Anabel Valencia, Manuel Moneo or ChanquitaWe have seen dance Juan de Juan, Fernando Jiménez…and so many more who have taken advantage of these days to celebrate life. Always in rhythm, like the Virgin of Rocío.

 

Anabel Valencia. Rocío Pilgrimage 2025. Photo: Juan Garrido
Anabel Valencia. Rocío Pilgrimage 2025. Photo: Juan Garrido

 

Tags: Choir of the KingsFrom insideflamenco in El RocioPilgrimage of El Rocio
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Ana Almagro, Ana Fargas and Isabel Guerrero, at the Art Biennial Flamenco from Malaga

Juan Garrido

Juan Garrido

Jerez, 1991. Flamenco and communication 24 hours a day. Since 2012, in the written press, radio talk shows, TV shows, festival presentations, specialized magazines... In my family we all dance bulerías, although I am the only journalist.

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Isabel Guerrero. Photo: Málaga Biennial

Ana Almagro, Ana Fargas and Isabel Guerrero, at the Art Biennial Flamenco from Malaga

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